Kenwood equalizer ge1100 plus#
Main input and outputs plus two more sets for tape loops. Variable time delay controls provides an echo like reverb effect with visual feedback, perfect to "space out" to. Impressive large format box sits almost 6 inches high. I hope someone will have a potential idea for me to investigate, and will otherwise proceed with the recap.Dual 12 band equalizer with lighted knobs. $300 shipped, the same price as the unit in pristine condition lol. I've also messaged ebay sellers for parts, but no one has the board, and the least expensive out-of-service unit I could find is well.
I've got a basic oscilloscope, multimeter, and a shitty but good enough signal generator, but I'm way too worried about frying one of the chips on the board as I have absolutely no idea how they work together. I couldn't find any info on that piece of hardware and the reason it might fail. Unfortunately, there are quite a few ICs in there, and my knowledge only goes so far. Regarding the issue with the display on the equalizer (this post), I'm going to redo every soldering joint on the analyzer board, then pull out each transistor and test it, then pull out each cap and do the same, before recapping it.
Kenwood equalizer ge1100 manual#
The service manual is available here, and the whole schematic is available but I don't know enough in order to figure out what could be the issue unfortunately, so if anyone is able to help I'd be very thankful!Ĭlick to expand.I know I should begin by doing so, and I already fixed the preamp (dbx-cx3) by replacing the output muting transistors, and one of the opamps, which is the primary reason I'm willing to recap everything, as I'm pretty sure both those components failed because of a janky voltage rail. If anyone has the board for the screen and is willing to sell it, I'm interested. I've also tried looking at a 'for parts' unit, but they go for $150-250 in non-working condition here in Europe so that's not a solution I'm keen on as of now. Picture of the issue, where we can clearly see some rows and lines not working: If anyone has information on the way that screen is driven, and what could be the issue, please share it as that would be of tremendous assistance. My understanding is that it's an expansion and heat-creep-related issue, and I went ahead and redid all the solder joints in the area of the screen hoping one of them was cold. Only noticed this in the last couple of weeks, and have been using the equalizer for 3 years. Then it comes back on and works again and stays like this. The right side of my analyzer display (neon tech I believe) is turning on upon power-up, before giving out for about 15mins while playing. I also have a little request for help from the knowledgeable people here, as I was unable to find an answer even after doing three days of research (shame on me maybe?): Picture of my unit running (sorry for the bad quality, will do one better once I pull it out of my system): Kept every single cap with the same rating capacity-wise, but upgraded some in their voltage ratings as it was far cheaper on large quantities (grouping with my DBX-CX3 MKI for the order).įor documentation purposes, I'll be attaching clean pictures of every board once I take them out for soldering, and I can already post my parts lists for the recap. When choosing capacitors, I went with either the cheapest 'audio' Nichicon or general-purpose caps when they presented better specs on paper (used ripple current and service hours as a metric, as they don't include their ESR ratings unfortunately). I'll be replacing all electrolytics without distinction as to where they reside in the equalizer, along with upgrading the plethora of 4558D with NE5532P. Recently, however, I've tackled some issues with my preamp, and while at it thought I'd group my order for a recap of both this equalizer and the problematic preamp. The first owner was my father, unit was never serviced, and stayed powered off for most of the last 20 years (except the last three lol). The Sound has the 'warm' feeling from old caps and the power supply caps for sure need to be replaced, hence that thread. I've been using this beautiful unit for a little while now and thought everything was fine, although a bit crunchy when pressing buttons.
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